We started our journey to Canary Island traditionally in Benalmadena. On the first day we moved just a little bit further, made only 6 miles to Fuengirola where we picked up the rest of the crew. Finally we were all 4 brave men on board. Because of the bank holiday in Spain that day we couldn’t do any shoppings. The same day at the evening we went to Ceuta as fast as possible. The weather prediccion wasn’t optimistic at all, with a low pression coming from Atlantic over Canary Islands in a few days time and a low in high levels of atmosphere, so called DANA, which would cause serious instability all around the region in the following days. That meant to us to be in hurry, exacly like the last year.
The plan was to make as much south as possible before the conditions worsen. A half day in Marina Hercules in Ceuta was just enough to do provisions and make a quick tour around the town. We bought some 60 liters of beer, vine and liquers and filled up our tanks with cheap petrol. After the dinner we had with fried devilfish, fresh from the local market and few bottles of wine the spirits of the crew were high.
We left Ceuta for the evening low water, hoping to get some kind of superficial streams which would help us against the counter wind and dominant western stream in the Strait of Gibraltar. After a quick start we were really struggeling some for couple of hours, making 1-2 kts of speed at the middle of the night. To keep the resonable speed we were going on engine and sails, slowly making up the 30 miles distance to Tanger along the marrocan shore. By the sunrise we passed the Cap Espartel lighthouse and entered to the Atlantic.
In the morning we set up the sails with the 10-15kts of wind from the south and started going towards the ocean on 240 course, leaving the african continent out of sight soon. All day we were tacking between 150 and 210 degrees with avarage speed of 4kts. The fresh forecasts we got on the satelite phone told us about the Low geting deeper (for the moment 994hPa) and coming through Canarias directly on us. The question was if we have enough time to get to Safi or Essouira before the storm starts. Light wind changes to W and NNW later in the evening. In the evening of the second day we had Mohamedia just in 25 miles distance but still considering going further.
The only way to reach a safe harbour somewhere down from El Jadida was to start the engine again and with the help of the sails try to make 160 miles in the next 24 hours. With the average 6 kts of speed and surprisinly calm sea we were able to make it. By the sunset the next day we were security tied up to the pilot boat in Safi.
Safi is a large industrial harbour, between El Jadida i Essaouira. It is very safe port with easy approach. You can call the port control on chanel 14 or 16 and will be directed to moor in the front of the control tower, where the harbour master’s office is. The police and custom officers appeared in less than an hour or and all the paperworks went smooth.
They kept our passports, which is quite usual in Marocco and we were given special tourist cards to pass the gate of the port. The same day we lost one of the cards but finally the control in the gates wasn’t so strict and we all moved freely up and down to the town. The place where we were moored was the restricted zone and looked really safe but it’s better to lock the boat always when you leave. There are no facilities at all. The petron can be brought in cans from the town by someone local, anyone you ask will help.
The town is famous for pottery but in fact dosn’t have much to offer apart from its small medina and old townwalls. It has a nice sandy beach with a surf break but there are no tourists at all. We were the only Europeans we saw by the whole our stay there.
The wind finally came at night, with squalls of 12Bf from SW and the heavy showers. We were quite happy to be safe and with 400 Nm on the trip log which was just a half way from Malaga to Lanzarote. The weather forcasts weren’t too good though. Instead of going to the notheast, on the normal atlantic depression road towards Europe, this tropical storm was going to stay and come back to Canary Island in the following days, getting stronger fed with the humid and warm air it met on the way. And it got its name, now was unofficially named Carolina.
So this way our stay in Safi was getting longer. After a few days we were truely fed up with the place but I didn’t want to risk to go out because of the gusts of 45kts and the waves of 3 meters getting bigger every day. 4 days in Safi cost us 100 euros and the most of our alcohol provisions but at least we managed to fill up water tanks for free thanks to one very kind local official. It needs to be said that everyone there was really nice to us and no bribe was necessary but a few bottles of beer we gave away the very first day.
On Tuesday the centre of the depression started to move away to south-west so we decided not to wait anymore. The waves were still around 3 meters high but the wind decreesed to 4-5Bf. The sky was stormy, with rain and thunders. In the next morning the wind droped and changed direction so we could set up our spinaker for a while. We had even some sunny intervals and the rainbows all around were just amazing.
Few times we saw big whales at the distance and some packs of dolfins too.
And again in the afternoon the wind increesed to 6Bf with squalls up to 40kts and heavy rain. Later on by night in the pouring rain we start the motor. Trying to keep a good speed we added engine always when it drops below 4kts. This repeated every day, strong wind in the mornings, later weaker in the afternoons and at nights.
On friday we passed La Graciosa 25 miles to the south. This year, due to the plane tickets, we had no time to visit this beautiful island. We headed straight to Santa Cruz.
Finally we came to Marina Atlantico on saturday afternoon, having done 900Nm and 180 hours of sailing from Malaga.
This season 2016 in Canary Islands we offer:
- one week sailing tours, Tenerife- La Gomera – La Palma – El Hierro,
250euro/person/week + shared by the crew, marinas,gas&provisions (150euro approx)
- daily tours from Garachico, north of Tenerife, sailing between Los Gigantes and Puerto de la Cruz,
100euro a trip, up to 6 pax
Please call us or write for bookings.
Baleary to dla nas letni raj, w którym uczymy żeglować w przyjemnych warunkach a do tego bujamy się po zatoczkach, pływamy i nurkujemy w krystalicznie czystej wodzie we wszystkich odcieniach błękitu, lazuru i szafiru,
lenimy się na piaszczystych plażach pod pachnącymi sosnami albo zwiedzamy piękne stare miasteczka w górach Tramuntana.
Nie zapominamy też o stolicy Majorki, Palmie, której stare miasto zachwyca. Pływamy na magiczą Ibizę i zrelaksowaną Formenterę lub na mniej uczęszczaną Minorkę – do wyboru.
Zostały 3 wolne rejsy w terminach:
- 22-29 lipca
- 24-31 sierpnia (teraz bilety z Poznania za 480 zł w dwie strony!)
- 8-15 września (teraz bilety z Poznania za 480 zł w dwie strony!)
As our time in Canary Islands came to an end it looks like a good reason to make a resume of the winter we spent here.
We came in the beginning of December to La Graciosa, the smallest of the inhabited island of the Archipelago. The incredible peaceful place, with no hotels, resorts and loudly karaoke bars, in fact with almost nothing but a golden sand and lazure water. A small marina here is state-run what makes it really cheap, less then 10 euros for our 38′ boat. We feel pity that we spent there only 2 days and had to sail down to Arrecife to let the crew catch the plane back home.
This is the main town and the capital of Lanzarote with a new marina, concrete and glass style, but without a hot water showers and wi-fi, basicaly two things you expect from a fancy new-built marina and the price of almost 30 euros for per night. The port and the old town rised up on the reef what makes it quite charming spot. A big supermarket, hardware shops and a chandlery shop can be found. There are many bars and restaurants along the promenade but we can recommend Casa Ginory, a small bar just at the edge of the town going from marina, where mainly locals frequent. The fried fish sandwiches and other fish and seafood stuff there are truly the best we’ve ever had. Next few days on Lanzarote we stayed in the south of the island, near Playa Blanca, which is small but busy tourist town with an expensive marina and decent beach to drop the anchor. Absolutely the best this shore offers are Playa de las Mujeres and Playa Papagayo beautiful sand bottom anchorages few miles east from the town.
Our next stop was Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. No doubt this is the yachting capital of Canary Islands. Not only for the good anchorage just in the city, the cheapest marina (only 7 euros per day for our boat!!), lots of chandlery shops, all kind of workshops and everything the big harbour can offer to a yachties. If you come with a boat better don’t go there from the end of October to the beggining of November because it’s so pack with the yachts taking part in ARC reggatta that there will be really no place anyhow for your boat. Otherwise it is truly the best harbour here.
The rest of the winter we were cursing between the western group of islands which are: Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma and El Hierro. Tenerife is the biggest of the islands with the most diverse landscapes, dominated by huge volcano El Teide (3718m), millenary forests, impressive mountains and cliffs and the massive tourist centres in the south. Its capital, Santa Cruz has 3 marinas with price range about 20 euros per night. The one in the city centre has permanent hot water problem but wi-fi is good and all the shops near. From here you can take a bus to Anaga, the mountainous and the wildest part of the island to hike one of deserted rails. It is really a five stars trip. Among many attractions you find here we can recommend a trip by tram to La Laguna, a glamourous, colonial-style old town where the local university is located and a number of bars and nightclubs attract young people from all the island to party right there.
There are only few protected anchorages in the island. One of the best and the only one in the north is Playa Antequera, 6 miles north from the capital. The bay is well protected from the dominant trade winds but the sudden gusts coming from the hills can be expected. Anchor on 6 meters, sand. there is a little jetty to leave a dinghy to go ashore where a couple of quite big caves and the completely deserted beach can be found.
Most of our time on Tenerife we spent on the leeward side of the island, which is the south-west coast. There are only two marinas open for transit yachts on that side: Las Galletas and Los Gigantes on its both extremes. The first one is located in small fisherman town, with fish market open every morning and lots of stores, bars and restaurants. The marina is one of the most expensive in all the island, almost 30 euros per night. The facilities though are very poor and the town’s surroundings dull. The usual strong winds here and a swell that sometimes comes from the western directions makes it very uncomfortable. Los Gigantes suffers from that ocean swell as well. Its landscapes with the close view of the cliffs are really impressive though.
Virtually all the hotels and resorts are located on those southern shores and all the littoral is massively urbanized. There is the only virgin bit of seaside between La Caleta and Playa Paraiso which offers good anchorages as well. The local hippie community found its place here as well. A total peace in those lovely bays is disturbed only by tourist boats from nearby Playa Las Americas.
There is only 20Nm from that shore to San Sebastian de La Gomera. Usually it’s very quiet passage but the last 10 to 5 miles where the acceleration zone is tend to be found with the winds blowing 25-30 knots and the 2-3 meters high waves.
to be continued
Rejs wzdłuż wybrzeża Hiszpanii 29 czerwca – 10 lipca
Zapraszamy na rejs, na którym znajdzie się czas i na żeglowanie i na zwiedzanie. Będą andaluzyjskie miasta i miasteczka, z arabskimi i rzymskimi zabytkami dla miłośników przeszłości i lokalnymi przysmakami dla wielbicieli hiszpańskiej kuchni.
Odwiedzimy hipisów, którzy mieszkają w jaskiniach i małych domkach na odciętej od cywilizacji plaży San Pedro.
Popłyniemy też na najmniejszą wysepkę Tabarca zamieszkaną przez kilkadziesiąt osób. To świetne miejsce na kąpiel i powłóczenie się między malowniczymi rybackimi domkami.
Rejs kończymy w Alicante, gdzie Adam zna najlepsze knajpki serwujące tapas, a oprócz tego można zwiedzić muzeum Volvo Ocean Race i po prostu połazić po starym mieście.
Daty rejsu możemy przesunąć o dzień lub dwa, jeśli znajdziecie dobre loty w innych terminach.
Ostatni wolny rejs do Maroka 5-11 czerwca
Zaczynamy w Benalmadenie, małej turystycznej miejscowości pod Malagą, dokąd jeździ kolejka prosto z lotniska. Do Malagi najtaniej lata Ryanair z Wrocławia. Na początku płyniemy odwiedzić małpy na Gibraltarze i skoczyć do angielskiego pubu.
Przez Cieśninę Gibraltarską ruszamy do Afryki, zatrzymujemy się w hiszpańskiej Ceucie, gdzie zwiedzamy, robimy ostatnie europejskie zakupy i idziemy na pyszne szaszłyki. Dalej już Maroko i mała marina Mdi’q, którą zajmują głównie lokalni rybacy. Stąd łatwo wybrać się na wycieczkę do miasta Chefchaouen (położonego w górach Rif), słynnego z malowniczej, niebieskiej mediny.
Z Maroka wracamy bezpośrednio do Malagi. Żeglarsko rejs raczej lajtowy. Całość to jedynie 150 Mm, co daje idealną proporcję między żeglowaniem i zwiedzaniem dla mniej wymagających żeglarzy.
On the way to Santa Cruz de Tenerife yesterday we met this group of atlantic spotted dolphins. Such a beauty!
Zapraszamy na 2-etapowy rejs stażowy z Kanarów do Hiszpanii na początku maja. Dokładny termin do ustalenia ale planujemy wyruszyć na początku maja. Pierwszy tygodniowy etap na Madeirę przez zupełnie dziewicze Islas Salvajes, do Funchal i Porto Santo. Drugi etap do Tangeru, przez Giblartar do Malagi. Razem 2 tygodnie, 4 kraje, 3 archipelagi i ok 1000Mm do pokonania. Cena 300 euro za całość lub 200 euro za każdy z etapów plus składka jachtowa.